Shaanxi & Xi'an, China

From Shanghai, I flew east to the dusty, dry province of Shaanxi, to visit the famous city of Xi'an, best known recently for the discovery of the Terracotta Warriors, which was the main reason for my jaunt down there.

Xi'an was again, very different from both Beijing and Shanghai - very different feeling - a bit more frontier town, neither really cosmopolitan or very political. I had originally gone to see the Terracotta Warriors, not realizing that there were a ton of other amazing things to see there, so I ended up having a very full trip there. The only downside was that it was freakishly hot for April in Xi'an and the temp was 38 degrees C on the day I spent travelling in a taxi without air conditioning for the entire day of sightseeing... I hadn't really planned on that, so it was a bit of a test.

I stayed in a very cool hotel, the new Sofitel in downtown Xi'an, which was very funky and ultra-modern. I had no problem lining up an English speaking driver who was my guide for a couple of days and very entertaining (which was a good thing, given I wasn't paying for air conditioning). We started by doing a brief tour of the city itself, stopping at the Xi'an City Wall, which runs 9 miles around the entire old city of Xi'an. This is unusual, because most of these kinds of city walls were destroyed, so this is a bit of an anomaly, built in 1370. It is 40 feet high and there are many places to climb up and walk on the wall to get a great view of the city, both inside and out.

From there I visited the Great Goose Pagoda (known as the Dayan Pagoda) which is apparently one of the finest surviving pagodas in the world. It is about 200 feet high with ricketly wooden stairs leading to the very top, which gradually gets smaller and smaller. It's especially enjoyable to climb the stairs in sweltering heat with hoards of tourists, but it had to be done. The gardens around the pagoda are stunningly beautiful, with perfectly manicured rose and flower gardens, and many other smaller pagodas - the entire thing looks like a picture.

The Shanghai Experience

From Beijing I flew to Shanghai, which is about as different as you can get from the historic, sombre environment of Beijing. Shanghai is the biggest city in the country, and by far the most dynamic and growing - with over 15 million people. I landed at night, and would highly recommend this, as the drive into the city is amazing - there are hundreds of skyscrapers and each one is lit up at the very top with different colours, each emphasizing the unique architecture of each building. It's fabulous.

I wasn't exactly "roughing it" in Shanghai, as I checked into the ultra-luxurious Shangri-La hotel, in Pudong, on the bank of the Yangzi over looking the historic Bund on the opposite bank of the river. My 45th floor hotel room had floor to ceiling windows the entire width of the room with a fantastic view of the entire city - which is very cosmopolitan and bustling... much different than Beijing. The Bund is a riverside promenade lined with grand colonial buildings that are a direct contrast to the modern glass and skyscrapers in the commercial zone just across the river. In the mornings, it is very common to see tons of residents come out to do their morning exercises along the waterfront of the Bund.

Unfortunately, I didn't have much sightseeing time in Shanghai since I was working the entire time I was there, however I did manage to sample a bit of the nightlife, some fantastic restaurants and of course, the trip wouldn't have been complete without a trip to the infamous Xiangyang Market (where you can get the best knock-offs and fakes ever!) On our last day, we all trooped over there to put our bartering skills to the test - and we all came home loaded with some lovely fake Coach and Vuitton bags - one of my colleagues even bought an entire set of Callaways, complete with bag, putter and balls - for $100! All part of the experience...

I managed to get up the Oriental Pearl Tower, which is like the Eiffel Tower of Shanghai - it's a free-standing structure that looks like a needle with two pearls threaded through it and is sort of represents the birth of modern art in China at the start of the 20th century.

Definitely need to get back to Shanghai to really experience some of the sites of the city - a week is just not enough time, however, the 95th floor of the hotel did have a particular nice martini bar, which was well used by our team at the end of another hard day!

The Great Wall

Once you've been to the Great Wall, there's no question about why it's one of the Seven Wonders of the World.. it is unbelievable - and for that matter, so is China. I kicked off my trip to China with a stop in Beijing first - partly for work and partly to see some of the historic sites, the Great Wall being one of them. The VP of the agency I'm working with was gracious enough to take me out to one of the less touristy parts of the wall, Mutianyu. It is definitely less touristy, but it's also VERY steep.. like crazy steep... one of the sections we climbed was over 700 steps - I lost count after that...(maybe it was the altitude!)

I did manage to cram a lot of sightseeing into a short period of time while I visited Beijing, including the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the gorgeous Temple of Heaven. Oh, and I did work while I was there, which was the original purpose... It is not that difficult to get around, if you recruit an English speaking guide so you can navigate in a taxi, otherwise forget it. The traffic is unbelievably bad - it's like one massive traffic jam, with 10 million cars not moving - and the smog is also incredibly bad - it's like a big thick cloud hanging over everything, so even when the sun is shining, it's still kind of gray and hazy...

There is so much to see and take in that it is hard to digest it - so much history, so many dynasties and emperors - it's endless. The Forbidden City is very impressive, sitting right on the corner of Tiananmen Square - and it is massive... it takes at least an hour and a half to get through it, and get something out of it. There are three inner palaces once you get through the main gate and everything inside is huge - even enough housing to keep over 3000 concubines!

The eating situation can be a bit of an adventure, especially if you don't read or speak Chinese, and you decide to venture past the big hotels... if you're really lucky you end up pointing to something on the menu that might actually be recognizable - like chicken or fish... otherwise, good luck - I know that shark's fin soup is considered a delicacy in China, but I swear, if I had to eat one more bowl of that stuff (good fortune or not), I was going to gag...

Even though I consider myself a fairly adventurous eater, there are a lot of very unusual menu offerings, so you sort of have to just trust your Chinese friends and drink a lot of tea to wash it down... Watch out for bones in the chicken though!