The Elephant Express - Journey into Hwange

Our experience on safari in Zimbabwe - specifically in Hwange National Park, was completely different than the one we had in South Africa at Kruger, which is definitely much more developed and more of an "industry".   That was part of the charm of Zimbabwe for me - the experience in Hwange and the lodge we stayed at had the perfect balance of off-the beaten track meets cozy luxury. Hwange is the largest natural reserve in Zimbabwe and its grass and woodlands are home to a wide variety of wildlife, including one of the world's largest population of elephants.

Our travel experience to Hwange was quite unique and a welcome change from driving.  We hopped aboard a quaint one-car safari train at Dete Rail Station near the entrance to the park and proceeded to take the "Elephant Express" for about 80 km down the straightest railway track I've ever seen - into the heart of the park to our lodge.  After many days of bumpy journeys on rough terrain, the train was a relaxing and welcome change of transportation.  The train is operated exclusively by Imvelo Lodges who have several amazing lodges and safari camps in and adjacent to the park and the train ride in was a fantastic way to kick off the trip.  As we got deeper into the park we saw baboons, impala and a pair of lion brothers chilling in the setting sun.  The train also goes past the spot where the now infamous Cecil the Lion was killed. 

I would highly recommend taking the train at least one way if you have the chance.  It is such a unique way to see the park and with a bottomless gin and tonic in hand and friendly guides and conductors aboard, it is the best possible introduction to your visit here.  The train runs back and forth once daily so we took it only on the way in, but had I known a bit more about the experience I would have booked it for the way out as well.  You save yourself and your backside 2+ hours of driving on sandy bumpy roads.

We arrived at our destination in time to witness the first of many spectacular sunsets on the magical Ngamo Plains.  Our safari jeep was waiting to take us to Camelthorn Lodge, located in the Ngamo private Concession in the southeastern part of Hwange.

A tribute to a fallen hero

Discovering the "Smoke that Thunders" - Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Mosi-oa-tunya - "the smoke that thunders" is an awe-inspiring sheet of falling water that spans the Zambezi River and forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.  It's also one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.  The Falls cut a 2 km swath across the majestic Zambezi, sending more than 500 million cubic litres of water over its edge every minute during the height of the rainy season!  I've been to Niagara Falls and it is very impressive, but it pales in comparison to Victoria Falls and its glorious rainbows and deep gorges.  The other thing that's kind of nice is that in comparison to Niagara it is not very touristy.  They get about 20,000 visitors a year, which is nothing compared to the Niagara machine and its nonstop boat trips to the falls every 30 minutes every day!  David Livingstone discovered the falls in 1855 when one of the local Makololo tribe members took him to the edge.  He was so overwhelmed with the beauty and power of the waterfall that being a loyal British subject he named it after Queen Victoria.  Of course the local people still refer to it by its local name, Mosi-oa-tunya.

We were there mid-fall (May) and the end of the wet season so the Falls were at their fullest capacity. It was a very wet trip and needless to say there was no chance of getting to the Devil's Pool on the Zambia side - that is the small rock pool at the very edge of the falls that you always see in pictures with people appearing to hang over the infinity edge.  It is only available in the dry season when the flow is much less.

You can visit the Falls from either the Zambia or the Zimbabwe side of the river, although most of the best viewing (about 75% of the viewing spots) are located on the Zimbabwe side so I would recommend staying on that side.  There are 12 viewing spots along the walking trail although the further along you get the wetter it becomes - I highly recommend snagging a poncho before you set out otherwise prepare yourself for a torrential rainstorm along the way!  There are a couple of viewing spots where you literally feel like you are in a tropical rainstorm and can hardly open your eyes due to the volume of water falling.

We stayed in Victoria Falls, on the Zimbabwe side of the Falls.  In my opinion it is a much more quaint little city than Livingstone, which is much larger and seems more industrial.  Victoria Falls has a very British feel to it and is easily walkable from the lodges and a safe spot to take a break.  One thing that is a little disconcerting after a lot of safari travel (from the safety of your jeep!) is that the city of Victoria Falls is actually located in a national park so not only is there a massive waterfall, but there is plenty of wildlife roaming the streets of the city as well!  We saw baboons and elephants in the town itself, just strolling along the main roads and the hotels warn against venturing out on foot after dark.  It is worth taking a little drive through Zambezi National Park while you're there since it is so convenient.

We stayed at a new lodge called Batonka that was built last year (2016) and was lovely, with a very "Out of Africa" feel.  It has a handful of rooms surrounding a lovely pool and garden and a huge veranda where all the meals are served.  The management and staff were all welcoming and very helpful and it was within walking distance of the city center so a perfect spot to chill for a couple days.

We opted not to do all the touristy type things  but they are all available for anyone interested, including ziplining, ultra light, helicopter flights over the gorge, sunset cruises on the river and white water rafting.  The water was too high for rafting while we were there but I think that would have been a great option.

Africa - What to Know Before You Go

Plan Ahead 

I'm a pretty seasoned traveler so I wasn't nervous about going to Africa but I was a bit surprised at how far in advance you need to get organized and booked.  I'm not normally one to book 6 months out (and that's even getting late for Africa) but in this case, it's necessary to get the accommodations and the travel arrangements you want to make the trip more efficient.  In addition, while it's not essential, I think it's very helpful and will save you a lot of time and energy, to find a great travel agency that specializes in Africa travel, if possible. There is so much to see and do that working with folks who have experienced it first hand is a must.  I worked with Extraordinary Journeys, an agency in the U.S.

that was referred to me by some colleagues, and they were fantastic in every way.  Their team members are very passionate and knowledgeable about all aspects of travel in Africa and not one detail is left to chance.  I loved that the person I worked with (thanks Jenny) had extensive knowledge of the lodges, the game parks and other activities I was interested in and was able to match her expertise with the kind of travel experience I was looking for.

Be Flexible and Chill Out 

Remember - Africa is a huge continent and it takes longer than you expect to get from one place to the next.  So, while your itinerary might seem like the travel between places (parks and countries) is pretty straightforward it still takes a more time than you bargained so be prepared for some long travel days.  Depending on the locations you choose to visit, there can be a lot of transportation to get to where you want to go.  And, like anywhere in the world, sometimes things run on time and sometimes they don't.  We explored by plane, train, jeep and foot - we spent a lot of time on bumpy dirt tracks, uneven highways and crowded border crossings but we decided to just make it all part of the adventure rather than complaining about how long it was taking.  Engage your drivers in conversation on the long trips - they have a lot to say and are a wealth of knowledge about where you're going and some of the things you'll experience.  You'll be amazed at the things you'll learn. 

Manage Your Animal Expectations

Of course everyone wants to see the Big Five when they go to Africa.  This list includes the lion, rhino, elephant, leopard and Cape buffalo - it's somewhat of a random list but was originally coined by big-game hunters who considered these five the most difficult animals to hunt on foot.  Chances are pretty high that you'll see at least a few of these animals but there is no guarantee so don't consider your trip a bust if you don't check all of them off your list.  The animals are not waiting in a receiving line to greet you and as your trackers will tell you, sometimes they can be elusive.  Remember, you are not in an episode of Wild Kingdom, but in the real wild kingdom and it is unpredictable.  You will be amazed at the skills of your trackers in being able to find some of the animals during your safari but even the most skilled guides can't conjure a rhino out of a hat.  Your guides do their best during your bush drives to communicate with one another about sightings and will deliver amazing viewing experiences, but you might not see them all.  Don't be disappointed though - that's how it works in the wild.  

Pack - and then Unpack

Africa is just another country - not the moon - so don't pack like you are going there.  The last thing you want is to be hauling around a massive suitcase with clothes for every occasion.  Safaris are casual and even more casual, which is one thing I loved, even at the most luxurious of lodges.  You could wear the same khakis and top you wore all day to dinner and no one would bat an eye.  Not to mention, after 2-3 game drives or bush walks a day, everyone is too damn tired to really critique your outfit at the bar.  That is not to say that a fresh t-shirt and jeans aren't a welcome change after a hot day on the savannah but don't go overboard.  As with all travel pack and then unpack half of what you packed and you'll be happy.   We traveled with utility duffle bags, which I would highly recommend.  For one, you can't pack that much so they stay pretty light, and secondly they get bashed around between flights and all the various transport so a sturdy canvas duffle is a better bet than that Samsonite.