Shaanxi & Xi'an, China

From Shanghai, I flew east to the dusty, dry province of Shaanxi, to visit the famous city of Xi'an, best known recently for the discovery of the Terracotta Warriors, which was the main reason for my jaunt down there.

Xi'an was again, very different from both Beijing and Shanghai - very different feeling - a bit more frontier town, neither really cosmopolitan or very political. I had originally gone to see the Terracotta Warriors, not realizing that there were a ton of other amazing things to see there, so I ended up having a very full trip there. The only downside was that it was freakishly hot for April in Xi'an and the temp was 38 degrees C on the day I spent travelling in a taxi without air conditioning for the entire day of sightseeing... I hadn't really planned on that, so it was a bit of a test.

I stayed in a very cool hotel, the new Sofitel in downtown Xi'an, which was very funky and ultra-modern. I had no problem lining up an English speaking driver who was my guide for a couple of days and very entertaining (which was a good thing, given I wasn't paying for air conditioning). We started by doing a brief tour of the city itself, stopping at the Xi'an City Wall, which runs 9 miles around the entire old city of Xi'an. This is unusual, because most of these kinds of city walls were destroyed, so this is a bit of an anomaly, built in 1370. It is 40 feet high and there are many places to climb up and walk on the wall to get a great view of the city, both inside and out.

From there I visited the Great Goose Pagoda (known as the Dayan Pagoda) which is apparently one of the finest surviving pagodas in the world. It is about 200 feet high with ricketly wooden stairs leading to the very top, which gradually gets smaller and smaller. It's especially enjoyable to climb the stairs in sweltering heat with hoards of tourists, but it had to be done. The gardens around the pagoda are stunningly beautiful, with perfectly manicured rose and flower gardens, and many other smaller pagodas - the entire thing looks like a picture.

The Shanghai Experience

From Beijing I flew to Shanghai, which is about as different as you can get from the historic, sombre environment of Beijing. Shanghai is the biggest city in the country, and by far the most dynamic and growing - with over 15 million people. I landed at night, and would highly recommend this, as the drive into the city is amazing - there are hundreds of skyscrapers and each one is lit up at the very top with different colours, each emphasizing the unique architecture of each building. It's fabulous.

I wasn't exactly "roughing it" in Shanghai, as I checked into the ultra-luxurious Shangri-La hotel, in Pudong, on the bank of the Yangzi over looking the historic Bund on the opposite bank of the river. My 45th floor hotel room had floor to ceiling windows the entire width of the room with a fantastic view of the entire city - which is very cosmopolitan and bustling... much different than Beijing. The Bund is a riverside promenade lined with grand colonial buildings that are a direct contrast to the modern glass and skyscrapers in the commercial zone just across the river. In the mornings, it is very common to see tons of residents come out to do their morning exercises along the waterfront of the Bund.

Unfortunately, I didn't have much sightseeing time in Shanghai since I was working the entire time I was there, however I did manage to sample a bit of the nightlife, some fantastic restaurants and of course, the trip wouldn't have been complete without a trip to the infamous Xiangyang Market (where you can get the best knock-offs and fakes ever!) On our last day, we all trooped over there to put our bartering skills to the test - and we all came home loaded with some lovely fake Coach and Vuitton bags - one of my colleagues even bought an entire set of Callaways, complete with bag, putter and balls - for $100! All part of the experience...

I managed to get up the Oriental Pearl Tower, which is like the Eiffel Tower of Shanghai - it's a free-standing structure that looks like a needle with two pearls threaded through it and is sort of represents the birth of modern art in China at the start of the 20th century.

Definitely need to get back to Shanghai to really experience some of the sites of the city - a week is just not enough time, however, the 95th floor of the hotel did have a particular nice martini bar, which was well used by our team at the end of another hard day!

The Great Wall

Once you've been to the Great Wall, there's no question about why it's one of the Seven Wonders of the World.. it is unbelievable - and for that matter, so is China. I kicked off my trip to China with a stop in Beijing first - partly for work and partly to see some of the historic sites, the Great Wall being one of them. The VP of the agency I'm working with was gracious enough to take me out to one of the less touristy parts of the wall, Mutianyu. It is definitely less touristy, but it's also VERY steep.. like crazy steep... one of the sections we climbed was over 700 steps - I lost count after that...(maybe it was the altitude!)

I did manage to cram a lot of sightseeing into a short period of time while I visited Beijing, including the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square and the gorgeous Temple of Heaven. Oh, and I did work while I was there, which was the original purpose... It is not that difficult to get around, if you recruit an English speaking guide so you can navigate in a taxi, otherwise forget it. The traffic is unbelievably bad - it's like one massive traffic jam, with 10 million cars not moving - and the smog is also incredibly bad - it's like a big thick cloud hanging over everything, so even when the sun is shining, it's still kind of gray and hazy...

There is so much to see and take in that it is hard to digest it - so much history, so many dynasties and emperors - it's endless. The Forbidden City is very impressive, sitting right on the corner of Tiananmen Square - and it is massive... it takes at least an hour and a half to get through it, and get something out of it. There are three inner palaces once you get through the main gate and everything inside is huge - even enough housing to keep over 3000 concubines!

The eating situation can be a bit of an adventure, especially if you don't read or speak Chinese, and you decide to venture past the big hotels... if you're really lucky you end up pointing to something on the menu that might actually be recognizable - like chicken or fish... otherwise, good luck - I know that shark's fin soup is considered a delicacy in China, but I swear, if I had to eat one more bowl of that stuff (good fortune or not), I was going to gag...

Even though I consider myself a fairly adventurous eater, there are a lot of very unusual menu offerings, so you sort of have to just trust your Chinese friends and drink a lot of tea to wash it down... Watch out for bones in the chicken though!

More Mountains...

The weather and skiing were so great - I just had to capture a few more snaps...

Be sure to bring your toque, eh?

Because your head will definitely be cold without it! Even better if it comes with a free bottle of Big Rock Honey Brown Ale. As we discovered, apparently Big Rock Brewery feels that everyone will enjoy their beer (and probably ski/snowboard better) if they get a free toque as part of the package so the oh-so-stylish blue toque joined us on the trip after our stop at the liquor store in Banff.

Good thing too, because we definitely did some outdoorsy stuff, which is what you SHOULD do in Canada's winter wonderland! In addition to a couple days of snowboarding and skiing (and only one semi-serious head injury resulting in temporary memory loss), we crammed in some winter hiking and exploring in White Swan Provincial Park and some snowshoeing in Panorama's back country.

We spent an afternoon exploring the frozen lakes in White Swan Provincial Park, which is a bit south down the highway from Invermere & Fairmont. We didn't really know what we'd find there in the middle of winter, but we virtually had the entire park to ourselves, save for a couple of diehard ice fishermen who were perched (no pun intended) on their snowmobile in the the middle of the frozen lake. We also agreed that ice fishing has got to be one of the most boring sports on the planet, although probably a great excuse for escaping from the family and drinking beer.

After a few hours and some excellent action shots on the ice, we discovered these awesome natural hot springs (Lussier) on the way out of the park, set down beside a mountain stream. It was pretty cool (well, hot actually) because it was totally au naturale - just three small pools of boiling hot water sitting right in the shore of the stream, which was glacier fed and freezing. We even ventured from hot to cold, although I was not as successful at doing the full dip - the water in the stream was painfully cold and apparently I'm a bit of a wimp!

There were some interesting characters at the springs though - there was this older hippie guy who I think was totally wasted - and definitely could have used a good meal because he was a bone rack. Anyway, he was obviously a regular - he even carried his own thermometer with him and was quite happy to share his knowledge about the springs. By the way, he was SANS toque.... He must be from the US or something...?

FYI

Toque
Pronunciation: 'tOk
Function: nounEtymology: Middle French, soft hat with a narrow brim worn especially in the 16th century, from Old Spanish toca headdress 1 : a small hat without a brim made in any of various soft close-fitting shapes2 : TUQUE3 : a tall brimless hat worn by a chef -- called also toque blanche

Sunny Alberta & Beautiful British Columbia - CANADA!

Those descriptors pretty much say it all when you get to the western Canadian provinces and they especially hold true at the end of March when spring is just peeking around the corner, the snow is soft, the skies are blue and the weather is great for getting outside.

I planned an impromptu trip out west with a friend who had never seen the Canadian Rockies in all their splendor (poor guy) but who is now a convert – that usually happens once they get out there – all thoughts of Toronto being the most amazing spot in Canada get put into perspective once you experience that first glimpse of those soaring snow-capped peaks.

We planned a quick trip out west – only 6 days, but definitely action packed as both the weather and the snow conditions cooperated nicely.

We landed in Calgary and headed west to Banff, which is the main town in Banff National Park, about an hour or so away from Calgary, right in the heart of the Rockies. We stayed in a funky new hotel up in the mountains and overlooking the town site, with great views – and an excellent hot tub! Nothing like a good hot tub under the stars on a cold night..

We skied Canada’s second biggest resort (next to Whistler) on Wed, Lake Louise, which has always been my favourite ski hill in the Alberta Rockies. It didn’t disappoint this time either as we had mild weather and a nice afternoon for skiing. And, because it was mid-week, the hill was deserted – on some runs, we were the only skiers, so it felt like our own private mountain. A good friend of mine from grade school runs the ski school operations and has for years, so we hooked up with him and had a great afternoon of skiing.

We stopped in at the Post Hotel in Lake Louise (which is a lovely hotel nestled at the base of the mountain) for dinner before heading further west to Radium, Invermere and Panorama Ski Resort, where my brother works.

The Columbia Valley is a massive sprawl of flat land at the base of another stunning range of mountains, the Kootenays. Once you round the corner into Radium, you’re greeting by this huge open expanse of land bordered by snow-capped mountains on either side.

We stayed right up at Panorama, which is another 10km up the mountain, but well worth the hike. It is a totally self-contained resort that still has a very small-town cozy feel to it. The mountain itself is not too big, definitely not a lifestyles of the rich & famous type place, but more family oriented – and there are tons of outdoor activities to take advantage of… which we did!

Beyond Jaipur

Today we decided to head north of Jaipur, to explore the barren hillsides and visit the legendary forts and palaces of the ancient city of Amber. We drove way up into the hills on a twisting, turning dusty road until we reached Jaigarh, the “victory fort” which watches over the old capital city of the region, Amber, which lays in the valley below. The fort is unbelievable, like most Forts in this part of Rajasthan, it’s built on a seemingly impossible narrow ridge running about 3km and is still in amazingly good shape. We hired a guide to show us around, who ended up staying with us most of the day and who was very knowledgeable about Amber Fort and Palace, but also quite a lot of Indian history in general, so he was definitely worth the 300 rupees (~$8) we paid for the entire day!

We started out by having a look at what is apparently the world’s largest canon, cast in 1726 and has only been fired once. It is about 20 ft long and is massive – it’s on wheels but I doubt it has ever been moved from that spot and it took 4 elephants to pull it up the mountainside.

The Fort itself is very impressive, with two temples and a large palace complex built over 200 years by different rulers that lived there. I thought the most interesting thing was the intricate system they devised for collecting and storing rainwater from the monsoons, so it would last them through the dry season. They had enough storage room in the massive underground caverns to serve 1000 men for two years – it was amazing to see the system they had put in place with these massive cement waterways leading to huge storage tanks beneath the fort. From there we headed to the Fort Palace of Amber, which is the palace below. Of course, the best way to get to the Fort from the village below is by elephant, so naturally we hopped on the nearest ride and rumbled our way to the top, enjoying a slight shower when our elephant sneezed midway. I’m not sure what exactly comes out of an elephant’s trunk when it sneezes, but I know there was a lot of it and there’s really no way to control it once it starts!

Amber Fort was built from 1589-1615 during the reign of Maharaja Man Singh I and is really a spectacular reminder of that era of grandeur. The main gate into the palace is a massive stunning fresco of colour and in several of the rooms of the fort, the walls and ceilings are embedded with thousands of exquisite tiny mirrors, coloured glass mosaics and marble carvings. It’s really hard to describe how amazing it is and how much detail there is in every single room – it’s fantastic. There was a “women’s quarters” in one end of the palace, which housed all the apartments of Man Singh’s 12 wives and concubines. Even more interesting though, behind the apartments was an intricate maze of secret tunnels leading to each of the wive’s rooms, so none of the wives would suspect which of them their husband was visiting. All I know is that with 12 wives and that huge palace of tunnels and mazes, Singh definitely was getting his exercise (oh, and did I mention, it’s about 50 C here in the summer and no air conditioning?) Sounds like fun to me (NOT)!

The fort and palace are excellent examples of the combination of Rajput and Mughal art and architecture, built of red sandstone with marble trimmings (Mughal style) but also housing bastions for self defence (Rajput)

We headed back to Jaipur around 4 pm and I wanted to get a little shopping in – real Indian shopping, not shopping like a tourist, so my Indian friends took me to the mecca of the Indian shopping streets so I could experience it. The good thing about shopping with real Indians is that the shopkeepers instantly know they can’t get away with inflating prices, although they still try. I bought some artwork and what I actually paid was less than half what they originally asked. My friend took one look at the number they had written down, crossed it out, subtracted 50% and then took another 300 rupees off for good measure and that was that! Definitely an appealing way to shop!

Jaipur - the Pink City

The Jaipur region of Rasjathan lies on the eastern edge of the Thar Desert and the dry mountainside is dotted with forts, palaces, pavilions and temples. The region was once ruled by Rajput kings and so has a rich history that is kept alive today through its amazing architecture and traditions and culture.

Jaipur is much bigger than Udaipur and has a much more cosmopolitan feel to it, although still not as developed as Bombay or Delhi. It is often referred to as the Pink City because most of the buildings that line the street are a pink clay or plaster so the entire city is sort of a pink hue.

Jaipur is a labyrinth of shops, palaces, dusty streets, temples and historic buildings. The city streets are crammed with life, with elephants and camels jockeying for space with motorbikes, cars, rickshaws and farmers carting their wares. It is a fascinating shopping destination, with tons of small shops lining the streets, particularly in the touristy areas, but also the domestic shopping areas – on the surface (like most of India), it appears totally chaotic, but amazingly everything co-exists in a peaceful (well, maybe not peaceful..) harmony.

Anyway, I arrived in Jaipur in the morning and met one of my colleagues and a colleague of his, who is from Bombay, which was awesome because traveling in India with two Indians is definitely the way to go! Speaking Hindi automatically gets you reduced prices, personal service and excellent food.

We started with a visit to one of the main squares in Jaipur – Badi Chaupar, which is right on the main street. It’s a hub of activity all times of the day and night, lined with colorful shops filled with food, jewellery and clothing. This is the hub for some of the most interesting sights in Jaipur, including the famous Hawa Mahal or “Palace of Winds”. This pink stucture was constructed in 1799 by Sawai Pratap Singh and it’s ornate façade has become somewhat of an icon for the city. It is about 5 stories tall but is only one room deep and the face is covered with windows and balconies filled with perforated screens, designed so the purdahed (veiled royalty) ladies of the harem could watch what was happening in the street below without being seen. We walked up to the top, where we had a great view of the activity in the streets below, plus the hilly countryside surrounding the city.

From there, we toured the adjoining City Palace, which is now a museum, but part of it is also the permanent resident of the maharaja and where he stays when he is in Jaipur. The palace is an interesting blend of both Rajput and Mughal architecture with open, airy style public spaces leading to private apartments where the kings resided. We had an excellent young guide who gave a great tour and explained the history of the building and the chronology of the royals who had lived there.

From there we crossed over to one of the five Indian observatories built by Sawai Jai Singh II. The one in Jaipur, called Jantar Mantar (technical instruments) is the best preserved in India and was built due to Jai Singh’s keen interest in astronomy. This outdoor observatory was built in 1728 and consists of 16 large sculpted instruments, including a 75ft high sundial that are used to forecast the time, the expected date of the arrival of the monsoons, how long the days & months are, and how to read astrological signs, etc. The instruments are all made from huge pieces of cement because Singh believed the larger the instrument the more accurate the results would be. It is an amazing collection and on a sunny day (like it is most days here), you can tell a dozen things from these pieces. If you’re a mathematician or scientist, this would definitely be right up your alley.

In and Around Udaipur

I decided to spend the day in Udaipur today, since I hadn’t seen anything in the city yet. The city is called the City of Lakes, and with good reason – there are 5 man-made lakes in and around Udaipur, which makes the city very scenic and interesting to explore. The main features of the city center around the Maharana (king) and his all his palaces. The first and most obvious is the City Palace, which is a huge structure in the middle of the city, on the edge of Lake Pichola. It’s massive and now is divided into three parts – one is still the current Marhana’s personal residence, one is a public muscum, and the third is a hotel. In historical times, this was where the king spent his winters. The second, the Lake Palace, appears to be floating in the middle of Lake Pichola, directly across from the City Palace. This palace is also known as the Summer Palace and is where the previous king used to spend the summers. It is now a luxury hotel afloat in the water (called the Lake Palace Hotel), so I took a quick tour out there – you can only access it by boat, but it really is quite nice and very exclusive. The last palace is perched high up a mountain overlooking the city and the other palaces – called Saganngargh Palace, or Monsoon Palace, and is where the Marharana spent the monsoon season. I visited all three palaces, but saved the Monsoon Palace for late in the day, just before sunset. There is a narrow winding road to the top and the palace itself is really in ruins, but it is the best view of the entire region and in the shimmering pink of the sunset, it was fantastic.

The highlight of the day was an invitation to dinner with my driver Kan and his family, who live in the working class area of Udaipur. He lives in a two room apartment, with his wife Bimla and two kids and their lifestyle really epitomize how the poor working class live in India, although by his village standards he has really come up in the world. To put it in perspective, his monthly income is about 3500 rupees, which is about $75 USD, for his family of four. His home consists of two small rooms, one is a bedroom and central sitting room for the family, with a bed as the main piece of furniture. The second room is a tiny kitchen with a small cookstove on the floor, hooked to a propane tank. I was greeted like royalty into their tiny home, which soon overflowed with all the neighbours from their street, who were all curious to visit the foreigner! It was amazing. The women go to the market every day to buy their food, because no one has a fridge, or even running water and the women squat on the floor to prepare and cook the meals. It was amazing though – people are people no matter how you slice it. I got there and amid a bit of translation, some broken Hindi (from me), a little English and lots of hand waving and sign language, we all communicated just fine. The women were anxious to play dress up with ME – and took turns pulling out all their best saris and Indian dresses and suiting me up. I tried on 4-5 gorgeous saris, complete with bangles, jewellery and even a bindi for my forehead! We had lots of laughs as I tried to maneuver my way around in the layers of clothing. I can’t believe the cook, clean and do everything in all those clothes – especially when it’s hot. I felt like I was suffocating with all those clothes on. However, it was loads of fun and they were all laughing at me trying to elegantly get in and out of all the garb! At the end of it all, as I untangled myself, Bimla insisted that I take one of her gorgeous blue and red satin saris, and wouldn't take no for an answer, so I am the proud new owner of a lovely real Indian sari!

We had an amazing meal, although it is a bit of a chaotic way to cook and eat. No one eats together – the meal is cooked and handed out as it is ready, and each person just takes their share and eats when their turn comes. Being the guest, I was first and I ate by myself, in the tiny kitchen, sitting on a mat with 4 other women and Bimla still at the cooker. We had a fantastic home-cooked meal though – fresh japatis (like a bread pancake), a spicy vegetable curry dish, rice and dal, and warm rice pudding for dessert, with chai. I was totally stuffed, and overwhelmed by their hospitality. All the women sat on the floor of the kitchen, drinking tea and taking turns eating dinner, while the kids and the neighbours wandered in and out, grabbing some food and sitting outside. It was amazing - and a real taste of how most Indians probably live.

All in all, it was a great way to finish my stay in Udaipur, and not at all the way I had expected to spend the weekend, but it was even better. Definitely a highlight!

Udaipur, Venice of the East

I arrived in Udaipur, supposedly the most romantic city in the state of Rajasthan. The city, about 500,000 people (so very small by Indian standards) lies around Lake Pichola and is nicknamed the Venice of the East. The city is an interesting mix of lovely hotels, marble palaces, lakeside gardens and temples and really is quite lovely, especially after the chaotic busy-ness of Mumbai. I arrived late so didn’t see too much, but the terrain is very mountainous, but also arid and desert-like, so very dry, and especially now, before the monsoons, it is particularly dry and barren looking. Rajasthan is considered the land of princes and palaces and is known for the colourful traditional dress of its local women, which is a dramatic contrast to the brown dry mountains of the countryside.

I hired a fantastic local driver to help me with some sightseeing today (Sat) because navigating the local country roads is definitely not something I wanted to do on such a short trip – not to mention, all the signage is in Hindi, which makes reading a map a bit challenging. My driver’s name was Kan, and he is a local Rajasthany, from a small village about 120 km away, so to him, Udaipur is the big city. He had an excellent knowledge of English, a good sense of humour and was very helpful in suggesting things to do and see. We headed out to see the Kumbhalgarh Fort, aboug 85 km away (but about a 2 hour drive) through very mountainous terrain. Along the way, we saw interesting glimpses of rural life. Remote mountain villages, with mud and plaster huts, trains of haughty camels and bejeweled women in billowing colored skirts carrying everything imaginable perched on their heads along the road. We didn’t have to get far out of Udaipur to really be in the country and there were dozens of small villages along the road where it was amazing to see the way people lived – no running water or electricity, tiny one room homes filled with 10 or more people, and such hard work to accomplish every simple task. Definitely makes you think twice about the ability to just flick on a light switch.

We zigged and zagged high up through the Aravalli mountain range on a narrow one-lane road to the foot of the ancient fort of Kumbhalgarh, also known as the Eye of Mewar. It finally appeared on the horizon, situated along the crest of a mountain ride and encircled by a series of seemingly invincible walls, battlements and ramparts stretching 36 km – apparently the second longest continuous wall in the world after the Great Wall of China. Then, high above the Fort, on the summit of the mountain, in solitary splendor – the imperial Badal Mahal – or Cloud Palace. I stopped to take a picture from the mountain before the Fort and it was stunning to see. There were steep mountains in all directions and the Fort itself seemed virtually inaccessible.
My driver stopped for a break and I climbed up the steep path to the palace. I realized as I got to the top (breathless) at 3600 ft, why it was called the Eye of Mewar. In centuries past, it had protected the rugged land from invaders from as far away as Delhi because you could see forever.

After leaving the Fort, we drove for another two hours, through the steep mountains, to an amazing Jain temple, called Ranakapur Temple. It takes a bit of an effort to get there, but it is well worth the trip. Jainism is sort of another form of Hindu-ism, except much more strict. The Jains are a passive and non-violent community of people who respect life in every form and practice rigid fasting and many strict forms of self-denial. You can’t wear or bring anything leather into the temple, for example, because of its connection to cattle.

This particular temple is the largest Jain temple in the world and is quite amazing. The entire temple is made entirely of white marble and every inch of it is ornately carved. There is so much detail in the carvings, that it’s impossible to describe without actually seeing it. There are detailed carvings of all the Jain gods and their stories, plus there are 1,444 ornately carved pillars and hundreds of small alters with the different Jain gods featured in each. While I was in the temple there was a Jain service happening, with incense burning and offerings and chanting and many Jain holy men (sadhu) in white saris. It was a very intriguing place to experience, but given that I know practically nothing about this religion, I left with a lot of questions about this unusual practice.

Nearby the temple there is a very small rural village where several of the local villagers specialize in hand weaving by loom. They have elaborate hand looms and their work is exquisite. We stopped to see the colourful carpets and talk to some of the weavers, who are all from the same family (and caste) and have done this for generations (of course I bought a rug (durry). After you see how much work it is to make one, you really can’t not buy something!

We drove back to Udaipur in the late afternoon as the sun was setting, stopping along the road at a little stall for some masala chai (which is the best tea I’ve ever had – it’s amazing and sweet with the taste of fresh ginger and a little sugar – yum!) It beats Starbucks, hands-down and a cup of steaming hot chai tea is about 10 rupees… (5 cents or so).

Welcome to Bollywood my friends!

Mumbai (or Bombay as it’s more commonly known) is home to 15 million people, all of whom are packed into 7 islands on the west coast of India. And when I say packed, that’s exactly what I mean. I arrived in Bombay, not exactly sure what to expect, but it was clear that it is worlds away from the order and organization of Singapore! The airport was an interesting experience, although I did get my luggage quite quickly, but let’s just say the overall standards for cleanliness and hygiene are not exactly the same as in the west. For some reason, no one seems to actually throw garbage into a bin, but rather wherever they feel like dumping it. I’ve never seen so much garbage on the floor of a public place – it was crazy…

Since I arrived for work, my contacts in Bombay had sent a car and driver to pick me up, which was a good thing, since sorting out a taxi would have definitely been interesting. We headed to South Bombay, which is clear across town, probably only about 20 km as the crow flies, but in Bombay traffic, it’s another story and navigating the traffic takes another skill set altogether. In addition to the assortment of goats, bulls, cows and people in the streets, there are taxis, cars, autorickshaws, motor scooters, bicycles and buses all fighting for the right of way. It’s a bit of a miracle that there aren’t more accidents, but everyone seems to be able to manage the system and come out unharmed. There is no rhyme or reason to the driving though and everyone just speeds ahead, swerving madly and honking frantically. To the visiting tourist, it seems insanely chaotic, but it doesn’t seem to phase the locals one bit, so you kind of just have to go with it and trust your driver. I did!

I didn’t have much time in Bombay as I was flying out to Udaipur, in Rajasthan later that evening, but I did manage to observe part of a wedding procession (apparently it is not unusual for these to have upwards of 2000+ people in the middle of the street), see the great stone gateway to India on the harbourfront, and tour the Queen’s Necklace, the long stretch of beachfront that runs the length of the Bombay harbour (so named b/c at night the lights twinkle in a big semi-circle resembling the Queen’s Jewels – I guess a little left over sentiment from the days of the monarchy.

Singapore - the shopping mecca

When it comes to cleanliness, friendliness, fabulous food and quality of shopping, Singapore is the clear winner. Arriving in the city, the first thing you notice is how immaculately clean the entire city is – not a scrap of garbage, no overflowing bins or strange odors from back alleys; everything is packaged, painted, polished, policed and pristinely perfect. There is a strict order of conduct for everything in Singapore, from a ban on chewing gum (which is actually enforced), to fines for every possible infraction. However, all of these rules and regulations add up to a city which is a true pleasure to visit, although at times, it does feel like one huge outdoor shopping center. I’ve truly never seen so many towering shopping centers in such a concentrated area or so many dedicated shoppers. I think that is the national pastime and primary hobby of most Singaporians. When I asked the concierge what else there was to see of Singapore, from a strictly tourist perspective, he mentioned key landmarks by their proximity to the nearest shopping center!

I did manage to find a few other interesting things to do in Singapore, besides work (which was really my primary purpose for being there) and shop. I arrived on the last day of the Chinese New Year holiday so everything was open, but it officially still a holiday so I did have a day to explore a bit.

I did the hop-on bus trip, which gives a good general tour of the city and allows you to get on and off at your convenience and is a great way to see a lot in a little time. Singapore has some interesting ethnic areas in the city, that are definitely worth seeing and really offer a glimpse into a totally different culture. I stopped first in Little India, which was a bit of a preview of what my visit to India might be like I think. The environment changed drastically – the style of buildings was distinctly Indian, the smell of spices fills the air and the narrow streets are crammed with shopkeepers selling everything from saris to CDs – it’s totally different than the organization of the rest of Singapore. The same holds true for Chinatown, where things were just returning to normal after the celebrations of the Chinese New Year, which just ended at the beginning of Feb. The streets are jammed with tons of shops, mostly selling touristy crap and a lot of Year of the Dog good luck stuff. There is a big night market with stalls selling every sort of food imaginable, most of it not looking particularly appealing when it’s 30 degrees (85) and humid out. However, it was interesting to at least see a different side of Singapore.

I also visited the famous Raffles Hotel, which is an lovely old colonial hotel downtown that looks like it belongs in a movie set. It’s massive and totally white, with marble staircases everywhere and open balconies and walkways throughout and although it looks a bit shabby chic now, sort of in need of a facelift, you can tell it was once THE place to be seen. It seemed a combination of Casablanca and Out of Africa to me..

I walked along the Esplanade next to the river and crossed over to see the famous Merlion, a historical symbol of Singpore – a tall half-mermaid, half-lion that towers over the harbour, with a fountain of water spewing from it’s mouth. Across the street on the bank of the river, interestingly enough, is the Fullerton Hotel, another massive old hotel that is obviously a luxury hotel now – it’s a funky combination of modern zen and traditional colonial, but very impressive (as is the name!)

My final stop, although it was a very short one, was to Singapore’s gorgeous Botannical Garden. I didn’t have much time there, but it was pretty apparent that this wasn’t exactly your average garden – there is an extensive specialty garden of orchids and the park is lush and tropical. It would have been nice to have been able to wander through the gardens, but I ran out of time… Guess I’ll have to save that for the next trip!

A Tranquil Oasis - Little Cayman

Since I’ve been to Grand Cayman six times now, I thought it was time to visit one of the other Cayman Islands, which include Cayman Brac and Little Cayman. I decided that I would fly over to Little Cayman, about an hour away and see what all the fuss was about. Turns out, there is no fuss in Little Cayman – there is no stress, no traffic, no noise; there aren’t nine cruise ships in the harbour, and in fact, with only about 150 permanent residents, it’s a pretty low-key destination. If you’re looking for an action packed island, this is NOT the place for you, however, if you like to dive, snorkel or just laze in the sun with a good book, Little Cayman would come highly recommended!

Our 12-seater plane landed at Little Cayman’s airport – and I use the term loosely; it is really just a grassy field with a paved strip running the length of it next to a one-room shack. I hopped off the plane and proceeded to walk into “town”, which is really one long road running along the beach, with a few small resorts and a couple of small shops. I was the only one on the road, aside from a few lone iguanas – which apparently have the right of way at all times on the island. I cut over to the beach, which was a mile or so long and lined with royal palms and the colourful pastels of the Caribbean. My friends from Cayman had sent me over to visit a friend of theirs who worked at one of the resorts, so I headed down to find it. Fifteen minutes later, I had met their friend, had been served breakfast and had committed to a dive in the afternoon! Not much arm twisting needed there…

I borrowed one of the kayaks from the resort and paddled out to a small nearby island to snorkel. It was scorching hot and the water was that amazing aquamarine blue and crystal clear – the kind you only find in the tropics. After an adequate amount of frying time, I headed back to the mainland, had a quick lunch and jumped aboard the dive boat and we headed out to the reef on the north side of Little Cayman.

There were about 15 divers aboard and as is always the case, when I dive, I’m a little anxious at first, trying to remember to check everything (always helpful to ensure the oxygen is turned on!) but the minute I get under the surface of the water, it all comes back and suddenly the stillness and silence of the deep blue are instantly calming.

We dove a site called the Mixing Bowl, where two coral reefs intersected – and it was truly a mixing bowl – many different types of coral and thousands of colourful tropical fish, from angel to parrot, and I even saw a big moray eel, with it’s fangs bared! The visibility was truly amazing, probably about 200 ft and crystal clear, so easy to see everything, almost like watching television, it was so clear. The water was about 87 degrees so a nice temperature for diving, although it’s amazing that you still get quite cold after a while.

I surfaced to a crazy rainstorm, that had suddenly descended upon us – a bit unusual and it made the trip back a bit rough, with 4-5 ft waves pouring over the boat. By the time we got to the pier, it was sunny and clear as though it had never happened.

I ended up staying overnight on the island, given the no-flying for 18 hours after diving rule, so met many of the locals, enjoyed a gorgeous sunset, a few drinks and a quick trip back to Cayman the next day. Definitely a journey worth taking, Little Cayman is the ideal place to slow down and really experience life in the tropics.

Paradise Found in Grand Cayman

What better time to flee to the tropics than at the onset of the dreary Michigan winter? I left on Dec 29 for my annual pilgrammage to Grand Cayman, to visit some good friends who have lived there for 15 years. As always, the minute you step off the plane, you realize that you've left winter far behind. Like most places in the Caribbean the temperature is shockingly constant, a fact that never seems to register when I'm packing and thinking maybe I should throw in a pair of jeans - that I never wear because it's way too hot. In any case, it was a lovely 29-30 degrees (or 85-90F) the entire trip and not too humid yet, although apparently they were having one of the hottest winters on record this year.

Grand Cayman is the largest of the three Cayman Islands and definitely the busiest. It's an international banking center, so there are a ton of ex-pats living there and it's a very expensive place to visit and to live. However, having friends who live there certainly makes this aspect more manageable and I get to experience more of a realistic picture of what it's like to actually live on the island and not just visit it.

As far as GC goes, it's not the most interesting of the Caribbean islands - it's very flat, not that big and there isn't a lot of unique culture or history to explore like there is on many other islands. It is very commercalized and in recent years, the traffic from the cruise ships has made it even more so. On any given day there are numerous ships in the Georgetown harbour, sometimes as many as nine! Those are the days the locals totally avoid going anywhere near the capital city. I don't care whether it's a tropical island or not, what is the deal with the cruise shippers strolling around town in their bikinis and sarongs??

The island sustained severe damage from Hurricane Ivan, which ripped through it a year ago and wreaked havoc on many of the homes and lush vegetation. The coastline, which previously had been lined with massive tropical trees and bushes is completely stripped bare in many places and there is tons of construction and rebuilding going on.

We spent New Year's chilling out in the backyard with a few drinks and at midnight we were treated to a fabulous display of fireworks courtesy of a neighbour across the canal. There were nearly a half hour of fantastic fireworks and it was amazing to watch them in the dark sky, since there isn't much artificial light. On New Year's Day (also my 39th birthday), I played a round of golf at the Britannia course at the Hyatt. This would normally have been a unique first (to golf on my birthday), however it might have been a little more enjoyable had we not all been hungover and boiling hot... However, it was still a treat to get out on my birthday so I enjoyed it, regardless of the consequences! We celebrated the new year with dinner out at a great English pub that recently opened, the Triple Crown - nothing like sturdy British pub food to cure an ailing head!

Cimitière de Passy, Paris

The Eiffel Tower & the Chaillot Quarter

A trip to Paris obviously isn't complete without a visit to the Eiffel Tower - although it's much more impressive from the ground looking up than it is once you're up there, which isn't suprising. We went at night, which was an excellent plan; first, it's totally amazing to see it at night all lit up, and second, there was no virtually no waiting - we just walked up, bought our tickets and next thing you know, we were at the top, so it was inadvertently a great plan. The Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 and was actually the world's tallest building until the Empire State Building was built in 1931. It's quite the construction too, apparently even in strong winds it nevers sways more than a couple inches. From the top, you get an amazing view (even at night) of the Tocadero Gardens and the Champs-de-Mars.

On my last day, not wanting to leave anything out, I jammed in a last minute trip to Chaillot quarter, which at one time was actually a separate city but is now a sort of suburb of Paris. The Palis de Chaillot faces the Eiffel Tour on one side and borders the Trocadero Gardens on the other, in a beautiful location. THere are tons of funky little cafes and restaurants, but even more interesting, just a few blocks away is the Cimitière de Passy, which is a small cemetery in the middle of this residential neighbourhood that is quite amazing. It is the resting ground for many famous people, including Claude Debussy and Edouard Manet and the tombs are massive and very ornate. There are rows and rows of striking crypts and huge tombs with carvings and detailed sculptures all jam packed into this tiny cemetary. It's very cool.

Anyway, I'm off to the Channel Islands, which I'm sure will pale in comparison next to the rich history (and fabulous food!) of Paris. Duty calls however... au revoir!

Painters & Poets - Montmartre

From Picasso to Apollinaire, painters and poets put the "art" in Montmartre, one of the interesting and very bohemian areas of Paris to visit. The two main attractions are the infamous Moulin Rouge, which is really pretty run down looking in real life... it's located on the boulevard de Clichy, which is the heart of the red light district (Pigalle) in Paris and that stretch of road is definitely seedy – filled with sex shops, peep shows and an interesting collection of atypical Parisians.

However, just a few streets above, in Montmartre, stands the Basilica of Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart). I'ts a spectacular and huge white basilica that was built as a memorial to the 60,000 French soldiers killed during the France-Prussian war and took 46 years to build and cost 40 million francs. It’s a bit of a climb up all the stairs to actually reach the church, but it’s definitely worth the effort. The church isn’t all that spectacular inside, but the view of the entire city once you're up there, is fantastic.

Montmartre itself is this tiny little collection of winding back streets, small squares and terraces lined with cafes and bars. There are plenty of artists around today still, painting tourist portraits in the place du Tetre, where this is an artists market with painters for sale. THere are also plenty of smaller museums and galleries up here, the most famous probably is the Salvador Dali museum, but we didn't have enough time - however, I did have an excellent bowl of French onion soup (although in France, they just call it onion soup!)

Principal 10 De Paris

Salutations, mes amis, de Paris ensoleillé.

What can I say… Paris is definitely as fabulous as everyone says it is… although I think it would be most amazing to be here in the spring when all the flowers and trees are in full bloom. It really is a gorgeous city, with the Seine meandering its way through the heart of the city, the rive gauche and all its funky shops, plus, everywhere you turn there is a little boulangerie or patisserie tucked away (I totally don't understand how all those elegant french women stay so thin, with all the amazing food in this city) - it really is an “experience”

I worked hard to see the Paris Top 10 during my short stay, which meant my feet were sore at the end of each day after miles and miles of walking… however, I am happy to report that I accomplished most of my mission… There are obviously more than 10 fabulous sites to see in Paris, but these were the recommended top 10: The Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, Sacré Coeur, Arc de Triomphe, Centre George Pompidou, Sainte-Chapelle, Panthéon, Museé d'Orsay and the Hotel des Invalides. I didn't see all of these, but almost!

Started with a stroll from Rue Saint Germaine on the left bank, where I stayed (in a tiny little hotel off Rue de Baci) over Le Pont Neuf (which means New Bridge and is actually a misnomer, b/c it is apparently the oldest bridge in the city) Just over the bridge very close to one another are two of the city’s most famous cathedrals – Notre Dame and Sainte Chappelle. Of course, Notre Dame is an amazing gothic masterpiece on the Ile de la Cité – with its distinctive towers at the front and rose windows. The church is famous for its Galerie des Chimeres (gargoyles) which are carved into the spaces bewteen the towers, supposedly to ward off evil. The church is massive and took 170 years to complete

Sainte Chappelle is very close by, but much different, much more subdued than Notre Dame – it was built in the 1200s by Louis IX as a shrine for his holy relics and is considered the most beautiful church in Paris, with its floor to ceiling stained glass windows and a star-covered vaulted roof. It is very small, but as you climb the narrow staircase and enter into the cathedral, the effect of light and colour is breathtaking.

Of course, a visit to Paris must include a trip to the Louvre, despite the fact that it is impossible to see even a manageable portion of it in one trip. There are over 350,000 priceless objects so you really could spend a lifetime there. We really just hit the highlights, which is not the most satisfying way to experience it, but it's enough just to get there; the building itself is amazing – the museum is housed in an renaissance style palace (although it was first built as a fortress) and is massive, with marble stairways and arches and long majestic hallways that go on forever.

I visited the Mona Lisa (La Gioconda), which was interesting in that it was so small and right out there in the open (I have obviously been reading too much of the Davinci Code)… I knew in actuality that it wasn’t a very big portrait, but it’s located in a large open gallery and is really very small compared to everthing else in the room and it seems relatively accesible (no protection other than a glass covering it, although I'm sure the room is totally wired). However, it is wonderful to see – if you can get close enough, with the throngs of people jamming to get a picture that is – it makes it difficult to actually just stand and admire it – everyone is so anxious to get a photo that half the people don’t even really look at. I managed to worm my way to the front of the pack for a brief instant and tried to take a minute to appreciate what I was looking at.

Also saw the Venus di Milo, along with many other gorgeous Italian sculptures, including Michelangelo’s “Dying Slave”, Psyche & Cupid (Canova), The Winged Victory of Samothrace plus a ton of other amazing pieces that I probably have no idea of how famous they are. It really is totally overwhelming. Another reason I should have taken an art history course in university.. Is it time for a latte and my chocolate eclair yet? My feet are sore...

Banff National Park

Nothing beats the Rockies!

I'm just back from a fantastic trip to visit family and friends in western Canada - and as usual, a trip to the mountains always reminds me of how much I miss having them right in my backyard.

Landed in Calgary and headed to Canmore/Banff and spent several days in there with my sister and my brother and his family - we totally lucked on the weather and had hot temps the entire weekend, which was a good thing given the crazy weather that southern Alberta has been having all summer. Banff was its usual bustling hub over the weekend, packed with tourists and Albertans escaping the city. It's still so weird to see Banff these days - so commercialized and trendy and busy - I remember when Banff only had about two restaurants and one good bar that everyone went to, so you always knew where to meet up with your friends b/c it was the only bar in town! Plus, we always managed to cram about 20 people into a crappy hotel room and each pay about $20 - no such luck there now, with all the big hotels and lifestyles of the rich and famous. Now there are tons of ritzy boutiques and specialty restaurants and everything costs a fortune. It's just so different. Even Canmore is growing - there is even a Starbucks there now, which generally signals the end of anything quaint and original. When we used to go to Canmore when I was in university, there was one little coffee shop (which thankfully is still there), a couple good ski stores and a couple of motels.. This time I saw a real estate listing downtown for a trailer up in one of the mountain suburbs for $400,000!!

However, the mountains stay the same, year after year - and every time I drive through the flat prairies of southern Alberta and get closer to the foothills, I always wait with anticipation to see the first mountain peeking from behind the clouds. At least I'm never disappointed..

Anyway, we spent the day in Banff and wandered around the Banff Springs hotel, which seems to get bigger every time I visit. Lots of weddings happening on the grounds, which my sister, my sister-in-law and I felt the need to provide running commentary on, much to the chagrin of my disinterested brother!

We did hit the Magpie & Stump for their famous margaritas and Mexican food however - at least one old stand-by that hasn't yet been replaced.

I got out for a great mountain bike ride around Canmore as well - although the altitude took its toll this time on me - I felt like I was having a heart attack climbing some of those hills... another reason the flatlands of central Michigan are bad news!