A Tranquil Oasis - Little Cayman

Since I’ve been to Grand Cayman six times now, I thought it was time to visit one of the other Cayman Islands, which include Cayman Brac and Little Cayman. I decided that I would fly over to Little Cayman, about an hour away and see what all the fuss was about. Turns out, there is no fuss in Little Cayman – there is no stress, no traffic, no noise; there aren’t nine cruise ships in the harbour, and in fact, with only about 150 permanent residents, it’s a pretty low-key destination. If you’re looking for an action packed island, this is NOT the place for you, however, if you like to dive, snorkel or just laze in the sun with a good book, Little Cayman would come highly recommended!

Our 12-seater plane landed at Little Cayman’s airport – and I use the term loosely; it is really just a grassy field with a paved strip running the length of it next to a one-room shack. I hopped off the plane and proceeded to walk into “town”, which is really one long road running along the beach, with a few small resorts and a couple of small shops. I was the only one on the road, aside from a few lone iguanas – which apparently have the right of way at all times on the island. I cut over to the beach, which was a mile or so long and lined with royal palms and the colourful pastels of the Caribbean. My friends from Cayman had sent me over to visit a friend of theirs who worked at one of the resorts, so I headed down to find it. Fifteen minutes later, I had met their friend, had been served breakfast and had committed to a dive in the afternoon! Not much arm twisting needed there…

I borrowed one of the kayaks from the resort and paddled out to a small nearby island to snorkel. It was scorching hot and the water was that amazing aquamarine blue and crystal clear – the kind you only find in the tropics. After an adequate amount of frying time, I headed back to the mainland, had a quick lunch and jumped aboard the dive boat and we headed out to the reef on the north side of Little Cayman.

There were about 15 divers aboard and as is always the case, when I dive, I’m a little anxious at first, trying to remember to check everything (always helpful to ensure the oxygen is turned on!) but the minute I get under the surface of the water, it all comes back and suddenly the stillness and silence of the deep blue are instantly calming.

We dove a site called the Mixing Bowl, where two coral reefs intersected – and it was truly a mixing bowl – many different types of coral and thousands of colourful tropical fish, from angel to parrot, and I even saw a big moray eel, with it’s fangs bared! The visibility was truly amazing, probably about 200 ft and crystal clear, so easy to see everything, almost like watching television, it was so clear. The water was about 87 degrees so a nice temperature for diving, although it’s amazing that you still get quite cold after a while.

I surfaced to a crazy rainstorm, that had suddenly descended upon us – a bit unusual and it made the trip back a bit rough, with 4-5 ft waves pouring over the boat. By the time we got to the pier, it was sunny and clear as though it had never happened.

I ended up staying overnight on the island, given the no-flying for 18 hours after diving rule, so met many of the locals, enjoyed a gorgeous sunset, a few drinks and a quick trip back to Cayman the next day. Definitely a journey worth taking, Little Cayman is the ideal place to slow down and really experience life in the tropics.

Paradise Found in Grand Cayman

What better time to flee to the tropics than at the onset of the dreary Michigan winter? I left on Dec 29 for my annual pilgrammage to Grand Cayman, to visit some good friends who have lived there for 15 years. As always, the minute you step off the plane, you realize that you've left winter far behind. Like most places in the Caribbean the temperature is shockingly constant, a fact that never seems to register when I'm packing and thinking maybe I should throw in a pair of jeans - that I never wear because it's way too hot. In any case, it was a lovely 29-30 degrees (or 85-90F) the entire trip and not too humid yet, although apparently they were having one of the hottest winters on record this year.

Grand Cayman is the largest of the three Cayman Islands and definitely the busiest. It's an international banking center, so there are a ton of ex-pats living there and it's a very expensive place to visit and to live. However, having friends who live there certainly makes this aspect more manageable and I get to experience more of a realistic picture of what it's like to actually live on the island and not just visit it.

As far as GC goes, it's not the most interesting of the Caribbean islands - it's very flat, not that big and there isn't a lot of unique culture or history to explore like there is on many other islands. It is very commercalized and in recent years, the traffic from the cruise ships has made it even more so. On any given day there are numerous ships in the Georgetown harbour, sometimes as many as nine! Those are the days the locals totally avoid going anywhere near the capital city. I don't care whether it's a tropical island or not, what is the deal with the cruise shippers strolling around town in their bikinis and sarongs??

The island sustained severe damage from Hurricane Ivan, which ripped through it a year ago and wreaked havoc on many of the homes and lush vegetation. The coastline, which previously had been lined with massive tropical trees and bushes is completely stripped bare in many places and there is tons of construction and rebuilding going on.

We spent New Year's chilling out in the backyard with a few drinks and at midnight we were treated to a fabulous display of fireworks courtesy of a neighbour across the canal. There were nearly a half hour of fantastic fireworks and it was amazing to watch them in the dark sky, since there isn't much artificial light. On New Year's Day (also my 39th birthday), I played a round of golf at the Britannia course at the Hyatt. This would normally have been a unique first (to golf on my birthday), however it might have been a little more enjoyable had we not all been hungover and boiling hot... However, it was still a treat to get out on my birthday so I enjoyed it, regardless of the consequences! We celebrated the new year with dinner out at a great English pub that recently opened, the Triple Crown - nothing like sturdy British pub food to cure an ailing head!

Cimitière de Passy, Paris

The Eiffel Tower & the Chaillot Quarter

A trip to Paris obviously isn't complete without a visit to the Eiffel Tower - although it's much more impressive from the ground looking up than it is once you're up there, which isn't suprising. We went at night, which was an excellent plan; first, it's totally amazing to see it at night all lit up, and second, there was no virtually no waiting - we just walked up, bought our tickets and next thing you know, we were at the top, so it was inadvertently a great plan. The Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 and was actually the world's tallest building until the Empire State Building was built in 1931. It's quite the construction too, apparently even in strong winds it nevers sways more than a couple inches. From the top, you get an amazing view (even at night) of the Tocadero Gardens and the Champs-de-Mars.

On my last day, not wanting to leave anything out, I jammed in a last minute trip to Chaillot quarter, which at one time was actually a separate city but is now a sort of suburb of Paris. The Palis de Chaillot faces the Eiffel Tour on one side and borders the Trocadero Gardens on the other, in a beautiful location. THere are tons of funky little cafes and restaurants, but even more interesting, just a few blocks away is the Cimitière de Passy, which is a small cemetery in the middle of this residential neighbourhood that is quite amazing. It is the resting ground for many famous people, including Claude Debussy and Edouard Manet and the tombs are massive and very ornate. There are rows and rows of striking crypts and huge tombs with carvings and detailed sculptures all jam packed into this tiny cemetary. It's very cool.

Anyway, I'm off to the Channel Islands, which I'm sure will pale in comparison next to the rich history (and fabulous food!) of Paris. Duty calls however... au revoir!

Painters & Poets - Montmartre

From Picasso to Apollinaire, painters and poets put the "art" in Montmartre, one of the interesting and very bohemian areas of Paris to visit. The two main attractions are the infamous Moulin Rouge, which is really pretty run down looking in real life... it's located on the boulevard de Clichy, which is the heart of the red light district (Pigalle) in Paris and that stretch of road is definitely seedy – filled with sex shops, peep shows and an interesting collection of atypical Parisians.

However, just a few streets above, in Montmartre, stands the Basilica of Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart). I'ts a spectacular and huge white basilica that was built as a memorial to the 60,000 French soldiers killed during the France-Prussian war and took 46 years to build and cost 40 million francs. It’s a bit of a climb up all the stairs to actually reach the church, but it’s definitely worth the effort. The church isn’t all that spectacular inside, but the view of the entire city once you're up there, is fantastic.

Montmartre itself is this tiny little collection of winding back streets, small squares and terraces lined with cafes and bars. There are plenty of artists around today still, painting tourist portraits in the place du Tetre, where this is an artists market with painters for sale. THere are also plenty of smaller museums and galleries up here, the most famous probably is the Salvador Dali museum, but we didn't have enough time - however, I did have an excellent bowl of French onion soup (although in France, they just call it onion soup!)

Principal 10 De Paris

Salutations, mes amis, de Paris ensoleillé.

What can I say… Paris is definitely as fabulous as everyone says it is… although I think it would be most amazing to be here in the spring when all the flowers and trees are in full bloom. It really is a gorgeous city, with the Seine meandering its way through the heart of the city, the rive gauche and all its funky shops, plus, everywhere you turn there is a little boulangerie or patisserie tucked away (I totally don't understand how all those elegant french women stay so thin, with all the amazing food in this city) - it really is an “experience”

I worked hard to see the Paris Top 10 during my short stay, which meant my feet were sore at the end of each day after miles and miles of walking… however, I am happy to report that I accomplished most of my mission… There are obviously more than 10 fabulous sites to see in Paris, but these were the recommended top 10: The Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, Sacré Coeur, Arc de Triomphe, Centre George Pompidou, Sainte-Chapelle, Panthéon, Museé d'Orsay and the Hotel des Invalides. I didn't see all of these, but almost!

Started with a stroll from Rue Saint Germaine on the left bank, where I stayed (in a tiny little hotel off Rue de Baci) over Le Pont Neuf (which means New Bridge and is actually a misnomer, b/c it is apparently the oldest bridge in the city) Just over the bridge very close to one another are two of the city’s most famous cathedrals – Notre Dame and Sainte Chappelle. Of course, Notre Dame is an amazing gothic masterpiece on the Ile de la Cité – with its distinctive towers at the front and rose windows. The church is famous for its Galerie des Chimeres (gargoyles) which are carved into the spaces bewteen the towers, supposedly to ward off evil. The church is massive and took 170 years to complete

Sainte Chappelle is very close by, but much different, much more subdued than Notre Dame – it was built in the 1200s by Louis IX as a shrine for his holy relics and is considered the most beautiful church in Paris, with its floor to ceiling stained glass windows and a star-covered vaulted roof. It is very small, but as you climb the narrow staircase and enter into the cathedral, the effect of light and colour is breathtaking.

Of course, a visit to Paris must include a trip to the Louvre, despite the fact that it is impossible to see even a manageable portion of it in one trip. There are over 350,000 priceless objects so you really could spend a lifetime there. We really just hit the highlights, which is not the most satisfying way to experience it, but it's enough just to get there; the building itself is amazing – the museum is housed in an renaissance style palace (although it was first built as a fortress) and is massive, with marble stairways and arches and long majestic hallways that go on forever.

I visited the Mona Lisa (La Gioconda), which was interesting in that it was so small and right out there in the open (I have obviously been reading too much of the Davinci Code)… I knew in actuality that it wasn’t a very big portrait, but it’s located in a large open gallery and is really very small compared to everthing else in the room and it seems relatively accesible (no protection other than a glass covering it, although I'm sure the room is totally wired). However, it is wonderful to see – if you can get close enough, with the throngs of people jamming to get a picture that is – it makes it difficult to actually just stand and admire it – everyone is so anxious to get a photo that half the people don’t even really look at. I managed to worm my way to the front of the pack for a brief instant and tried to take a minute to appreciate what I was looking at.

Also saw the Venus di Milo, along with many other gorgeous Italian sculptures, including Michelangelo’s “Dying Slave”, Psyche & Cupid (Canova), The Winged Victory of Samothrace plus a ton of other amazing pieces that I probably have no idea of how famous they are. It really is totally overwhelming. Another reason I should have taken an art history course in university.. Is it time for a latte and my chocolate eclair yet? My feet are sore...

Banff National Park

Nothing beats the Rockies!

I'm just back from a fantastic trip to visit family and friends in western Canada - and as usual, a trip to the mountains always reminds me of how much I miss having them right in my backyard.

Landed in Calgary and headed to Canmore/Banff and spent several days in there with my sister and my brother and his family - we totally lucked on the weather and had hot temps the entire weekend, which was a good thing given the crazy weather that southern Alberta has been having all summer. Banff was its usual bustling hub over the weekend, packed with tourists and Albertans escaping the city. It's still so weird to see Banff these days - so commercialized and trendy and busy - I remember when Banff only had about two restaurants and one good bar that everyone went to, so you always knew where to meet up with your friends b/c it was the only bar in town! Plus, we always managed to cram about 20 people into a crappy hotel room and each pay about $20 - no such luck there now, with all the big hotels and lifestyles of the rich and famous. Now there are tons of ritzy boutiques and specialty restaurants and everything costs a fortune. It's just so different. Even Canmore is growing - there is even a Starbucks there now, which generally signals the end of anything quaint and original. When we used to go to Canmore when I was in university, there was one little coffee shop (which thankfully is still there), a couple good ski stores and a couple of motels.. This time I saw a real estate listing downtown for a trailer up in one of the mountain suburbs for $400,000!!

However, the mountains stay the same, year after year - and every time I drive through the flat prairies of southern Alberta and get closer to the foothills, I always wait with anticipation to see the first mountain peeking from behind the clouds. At least I'm never disappointed..

Anyway, we spent the day in Banff and wandered around the Banff Springs hotel, which seems to get bigger every time I visit. Lots of weddings happening on the grounds, which my sister, my sister-in-law and I felt the need to provide running commentary on, much to the chagrin of my disinterested brother!

We did hit the Magpie & Stump for their famous margaritas and Mexican food however - at least one old stand-by that hasn't yet been replaced.

I got out for a great mountain bike ride around Canmore as well - although the altitude took its toll this time on me - I felt like I was having a heart attack climbing some of those hills... another reason the flatlands of central Michigan are bad news!

Take Me Out to the Ballgame!

I thought I'd better blog and capture all the travelling I've been doing lately before I forget all the interesting (and unusual) things I've seen and done in my past month of globetrotting (well - not really globetrotting, since I haven't crossed any borders, but close enough).

Just coincidentally, I've been to Chicago, Washington D.C., and Dallas in the past 3 weeks for both work and play. Chicago, of course, is fabulous and even more so, when a 40 mph ass-bitingly cold wind ISN'T blowing off of Lake Michigan in mid-January, which is when I usually seem to be there. It's much more enjoyable in June when the weather cooperates. Highlights of this enjoyable girlie weekend included a great Asian-fusion meal at the Red Light on RAndolph Street (complete with several big buddhas for good luck!); that funky custom handbag store on Halstead (Lill); draft beer and popcorn on the 3rd baseline at the White Sox game (in spite of the cloning fraternity boys in front of us); the particularly strong martinis (and particularly annoying bartender) at the China Grill; and the Chicago night skyline from the John Hancock building.

Washington was totally different and a big hit of American-ism at its finest - you know you've arrived in the nation's capital from the minute you're warned against moving out of your seat 30 minutes before landing or takeoff.

It was extremely hot and muggy while I was there, but fortunately, this time (unlike my first visit) I realized that the distance between the White House and the Lincoln Memorial was unwalkable in flip flops in 97 degree heat. THe highlight this trip was definitely the Holocaust Memorial Museum, in the Smithsonian - I spent about 3 hours there on the weekend and it was extremely well done, but very unsettling. When you first enter you're given an identification card of a real person who lived during the Holocaust - and their biographical profile- which really hits home. I got the ID of a girl named Flora Mendelovicz, who was 7 at the time of the Holocaust. Fortunately she was one of the survivors, hidden in a convent in Belgium and then immigrated to the US. There were many ID cards that were not so positive though. The inside of the museum is designed to look like a concentration camp yard, with brick and metal everywhere.. it's very ominous. The most impacting part of the entire museum is the final video, which concludes with eyewitness testimonies from survivors about their rescue, resistance and experiences in the camps. It's unbelievable, but very powerful.

Also got to the Kennedy Center one evening for a swanky cocktail party, the Lincoln Memorial at night, Vietnam War Memorial and Georgetown. We also had a reception at the Mansion on O street, this very eclectic group of old brownstones that line "O" Street and have been joined together - it's a dining room, restaurant, B&B, and antique store/flea market - you can buy anything in entire house, which is filled to the rafters with stuff, plus there are 25 B&B suites available. It's the most interesting and unusual spot - definitely worth a second look. More later..

Fun, Sun and Observations from the Sunshine State

Not wanting to chance the notoriously crap weather in Michigan over Memorial Day, I headed south for the long weekend, this time to Florida... I went with some friends down to Delray Beach, which is sandwiched between Boca Raton and West Palm Beach, on the lower east coast of the state - quite a scenic spot. My friends have a place overlooking Highland Beach, which is gorgeous and remarkably, still quite untouched. At this time of the year, the snowbirds have all flown home, so it's a good time to go, if you don't mind the humidity and warmer temps (which, of course, I don't!) I was surprised at how few people were ever on the beach or in the water. I loved it though - you can walk for miles without ever seeing another person - and it's especially nice first thing in the early morning calm, when the ocean's surface is like glass.. very peaceful.

Delray Beach is about 10 minutes down the road and quite a happening place - complete with it's own Elvis Impersonator, which is something to boast about, I would guess. It's a lively town with a good variety of decent bars and restaurants and pretty affordable, compared to the rest of southeastern Florida. Of course, you can't really escape your fair share of Lawng Islanders, who either live here or just like to hang out and complain here, but there are fewer at this time of the year, than during the winter months, which is a good thing. I always think that the "What not to Wear" team needs to move their show down to Florida and do a little helpful intervention on some of the fashion disasters roaming the streets down there. First of all, there is a huge trend of wearing velour or lame track suits with gold or silver visors and too much bling... then, there is the whole boob fetish, that is really unavoidable - too much boob and not enough clothing, in most cases.. particularly on the ones who paid for theirs..

We did go to this really great bar one night, featuring duelling pianos - I guess it's quite famous in this area - Hugh Jorgans is the name of the place and you can work out your own play on words, because it seems to be the theme of the place once the show starts. I guess if you donate your bra to the bar, you get a free t-shirt, so the entire ceiling of the place is covered with hundreds of bras hanging down. Interesting decor.. and more than a few willing bra donors that evening... Anyway, there are a trio of musicians, who play mainly the two pianos, but also other instruments, and they sing - everything under the sun - it's a really great time and by the end of the evening, things get pretty wild - let's just say we had seen more than we ever wanted or needed to of this out-of-control birthday girl in the front row... she apparently thought she was a stripper that night.. all 300 lbs of her!

Anyway, it was a good trip, but I always think Florida is a bit of an odd place to visit - and maybe it's just because I only ever go there for a quick vacation and really never experience "FLorida" It seems like the place you go to Walt Disney World and to golf and that no one actually lives down there, everyone is from somewhere else and just hanging out, driving Cadillacs and playing bridge.

However, I'll take the sunshine and warm weather any day... I got my yearly dose of Vitamin D - I'll just have to bottle a little for those 268 cloudy days in Michigan the rest of the year.

5 Reasons to Love Returning to Michigan After Your Vacation

1. Guaranteed snowstorms scheduled to coincide with your return from exotic hot holidays (even in April & May) ensure you really appreciate your time away and immediately start planning your next trip.

2. Michigan drivers have perfected the art of tailgating so much that they actually push your car along for you, saving you tons of money on gas (very helpful, when gas is $2.40/gallon) This is especially useful in gale force blizzards, driving winds and other treacherous driving conditions.

3. Since everyone in Michigan drives an SUV, there is always help on the highway during the above gale force blizzard, to rescue the pathetic drivers of smaller, fuel efficient cars not equipped with 4-wheel drive and hunting lights (or to drive right by..)

4. The sun only shines an avg. of 97 days a year, which is very helpful in preventing skin cancer, but perhaps outweighed by the increase in the number of cases of seasonal affective disorder

5. Better stop before I get myself into trouble..


Don't worry - I'm home safe and sound...

Nosara Sunset

Last Day in Paradise

After hearing the latest weather report for Michigan, I'm officially NOT looking forward to returning home. It's bad enough that Midland is nowhere NEAR a rainforest or a nice sunset, but going home to snow and cold temperatures in April is not my idea of a welcome back to spring. Maybe I should just stay and see where the tide takes me... the idea is very tempting...

Yesterday Hayley and I and the kiddies went to a stunning beach a little further down the coast, called Playa Ostional - it's only about a half hour drive away, but the beach is totally different than the others along this coast - the sand is mostly comprised of volcanic rock so it's very black (and very hot when it's 34 degrees out), but thick and so soft your feet disappear as soon as you step into it. THis beach is now a nature preserve because every full moon during the spring (actually it will be tonight), the big sea turtles come up to lay their eggs on the beach - they dig a hole in the sand and lay all their eggs, cover them up and a couple days later they all hatch, leaving the beach covered with the fragile white shells... it's very cool...I'd love to actually see the turtles when they come ashore.

We went to another smaller beach after that, called Playa Palada, which is a more protected beach with interesting tidal pools filled with all sorts of small sea creatures - the waves were still huge though and we got completely bowled over a few times by the force of the water. I still marvel at the fact that the sea is the temperature of a lukewarm bath.. no holding your breath to get in!

I've also been enjoying the great Costa Rica dining fare while I've been here - we've eaten at a fabulous Italian place, called La Dolce Vita, which could have been in Italy, the food was so good (owned by a jovial Italian guy named BoBo). We ate one night at a great "Tico" restaurant and tasted some local fare - arrozo con pollo (rice w/ chicken) and gallo pinto (rice & beans) - and of course, as per most tropical countries, the fruit is delicious and mouthwatering-ly sweet - papayas, mangoes, watermelon, you name it.. no chance of getting scurvy here!

I also went to an early morning yoga class one morning at the Nosara Yoga Institute it was a very unique experience - the class starts at 8 a.m. and is held in the middle of the jungle, in this outdoor studio, so you meditate on the singing birds and monkeys.. it's great.

I leave today, but will definitely be back to this spectacular spot again soon.

Adios

Hold onto your hats - the Gunacaste winds are blowin'

Apparently, I am experiencing a bit of an unusual weather anomaly this week during my stay... the famed Gunacaste winds, which usually blow during the winter months of Jan/Feb (and which draw surfers to Costa Rica) are making a rare appearance this week - just for me! So, the winds have been blowing like crazy - up to 75 km/hr at some points... and with Hayley's place at the top of the rainforest, it's great for cooling off, but at night it sounds like a jet engine roaring through the house.. However, they are very warm, temperatures are still close to 100... they make for great waves in the ocean though - Oceanna (Hayley's 5-year old) and I spent some of the day yesterday jumping through the surf and dodging jellyfish and other interesting sea creatures.

We spent most of the afternoon at a close friend of Hayley's, who just built this stunning house (I use the term loosely, more like a villa) with an infinity edge pool (those kind that look like they are falling off the side of the patio) way up in the trees - views galore. it's a good routine - morning in the ocean, afternoon lounging by the pool - it's like being on an all-inclusive (except free) vacation - without the tourists..

We went down to the beach for sunset last night, where most of the Nosara community gathers every night to watch the sunset together... it sets really early, and is completely dark by 6:00, which is actually ok, because after 12 hours of blazing sun, it's a bit of a relief for some shade. Anyway, the beach was unbelievably beautiful last night - there was this thick humid mist rolling along the shore that gave the whole thing this kind of dreamlike quality - then there were tons of surfers catching their last minute wave against the brilliant sun, lots of dogs running loose and playing in the surf, plus all the onlookers just chilling out waiting for the inevitable setting of the sun... it was amazing... there's definitely something to be said for this type of lifestyle, let me tell you - no cell phones blaring or rush hour traffic.

And, in spite of the crazy wind, I've been sleeping like a baby every night and waking up early to sometimes catch the sunrise or just listening to the parrots and monkeys sounding their morning alarm. There is a flock of parrots living in the treetops nearby so I'm starting to recognize their calls. It still seems very strange to see this flurry of colour while they all take flight right outside the window.

Anyway, another day in paradise beckons, so I'm off..

Adios

Holy Hotness Batman!

Okay - so maybe I don't need the long pants and the jean jacket I threw in at the last minute... I hate packing for warm weather destinations from cold ones, b/c you always forget how hot hot can be!

I landed at the Liberia airport in northern Costa Rica, to temperatures of 39 degrees (105F) and hot tropical winds - the airport was a one room hangar with the world's largest ceiling fan and no walls! Must be in the tropics now... It was a bit of a hot dusty drive from Liberia down the Nicoya Peninsula to Nosara - the roads leave much to be desired - most of them are not paved and are mainly washboard rock and clay so the vehicles here take a major beating... all you Michiganders would be well prepared here with your big 4 wheel drives, that are so useful in the cornfields of mid-Michigan...

My friend lives in the most gorgeous spot imaginable - her house is way up in this amazing rainforest at the top of a mountain overlooking the Pacific Ocean and the entire rainforest canopy. There are monkeys in the trees, snakes threading their way through the jungle and we even killed a scorpion last night in the house (very exciting!) The view is really to die for though - last night we watched the sunset from her balcony, and it was this huge red fireball sinking into the water, following by brilliant pink, blue and orange skies..

This is a big mecca for surfers, as well - and although it is now low season so there aren't many people around, the surfers are a constant at various times during the day. The beach here, Playa Giuones, is massive - and deserted - it's a sort of black sand beach, not sandy and white, but very flat and hard, but reminds me of the west coast of Canada - sort of like Tofino, except a thousand times hotter... all I know is the 5 year old I'm staying with can probably surf better than I can, but hopefully I'll remedy this before I leave.

Anyway, the day is calling... so I must sign off... stay tuned for more...
Nancy

Journey to the Rainforest - Ola Costa Rica!

One more week and I'm off to the jewel of Central America - Costa Rica. Sandwiched between Nicaragua to the north and by Panama in the southeast Costa Rica has both a Caribbean and a Pacific coast, so any trip there ensures plenty of beach time.

I'm headed to the Pacific coast, to a fabulous spot on the southwest coast of the Nicoya Peninsula, called Nosara, where my friend Hayley and her husband have a house high up in the rainforest. Coincidentally, I have already had the good fortune to have visited Nosara in the past. In 2000, my sister and I travelled for several weeks in CR, mainly the Nicoya Peninsula, and Nosara was our favourite spot on the entire coast - how lucky that my friends keep having the good sense to set up house in the best locations!

My plan isn't too ambitious - I feel the need for serious chill-time, I'm in winter recovery mode and Costa Rica is just the pace I'm looking for at the moment.

Stay tuned for more about my adventures with the Ticos..and visits with the monkeys.

Mojitos and more...

After a delay in Toronto, we arrived in Varadero quite late and to the aftermath of a torrential downpour, so everything was a bit damp, but still very warm. It was still about 25 degrees at 11:00 at night, which worked for me!

Our hotel was located along the Varadero Peninsula, a narrow strip of land with about 50 all-inclusive resorts along the shoreline. Brisas di Caribe, our hotel, was this coral coloured, very festive looking place, with a big bar and seating area at the entrance, 4 large pools and a great beach. I forgot that we were actually on the north side of Cuba though, so rather than facing the Caribbean Sea, we were on the Atlantic, so the water was quite a bit cooler than it would have been were we on the south side of the country. It's all relative though - compared to the Atlantic or the Pacific in Canada, it was still like bathtub water! Because of the time of year though, the nor'westers blow in from the sea, so it was quite windy the entire trip, which is apparently common at this during the winter months.

The whole Cuba experience is a very interesting one. It's sort of a catch-22, because it's very sad and a bit depressing to see how the Cubans live under their 46th year of the embargo - (they call it the Triumph of the Revolution, but you really don't see much to be triumphant about), but on the flip side, the embargo is also what makes the country quite interesting. When we landed, the pilot reminded everyone to set their watches back 50 years, and that's exactly what it was like. Although tourists are definitely insulated a bit from the experience, the minute you step outside your resort, you see the injustice everywhere. The Cubans themselves live in crumbling stone or cinder-block homes that are desperate for a coat of paint, and very few individuals have cars it seems, particularly outside of Havana.

One of the first things you notice, of course, are the cars - lost of vintage Fords and Chevs from the 50s - I generally saw most of the them with their hoods up or burning oil, but everywhere you look there are lots of old vehicles. I guess it's quite the feat trying to keep them running, with no access to AMerican parts - lots of creative auto maintenance going on I think.

We spent a day in Havana (or Habana as they spell it) and it was amazing.. the city really must have been something in its heydey because it has this elegant undercurrent, in spite of the decaying buildings and abandoned streets. The government has been making a big effort to rejuvenate the touristy areas, in order to keep attracting visitors, so there are a few parts of the city that are quite spectacular - sort of a cross between Spain and Morocco - very old-world looking, with old cathedrals and narrow cobblestone alleys. We visited the hotel and the pub where Ernest Hemingway spent the better part of 20 years drinking mojitos and writing "The Old Man & the Sea". ON the other end of the spectrum, we also visited Revolution Square, a huge open space where Castro gathers the people when he wants to communicate with them. There are several monuments dedicated to the revolution, plus a huge 10 story picture of Che Guevera - in fact, there are pictures of Che everywhere you look in Havana.

More later

Cuba Bound!

Well, it's been nearly 4 months since I had a real vacation - which means a little too much working and not enough playing... So, much to the shock of all my American friends, I'm heading to Cuba right after X-mas,(where apparently Fidel is the greeter at the airport).

I'm meeting friends in Varadero along the south coast of Cuba, about 1.5 hours from Havana. I've heard great things about Cuba and Havana, so am really looking forward to the trip - although the one bad thing I heard was that the food sucks...we'll see..

I'm looking forward even more to escaping this ASS-BITING cold Michigan weather.. I thought I might be able to hold out on buying a snowblower and stick it out another winter, but it's only December and we've already had an entire winter's worth of snow, so I might be changing my tune before long. Apparently, all potential snow-shovelling kids in Midland are too busy playing X-Box to be interested in earning a quick $10...

Anyway, it won't take much to improve upon December in Midland, so Cuba, here I come.

Stay tuned for more details!

Ola!

Arrivederci Roma

I leave Roma tomorrow and what can I say... a fabulous way to end the trip. Yesterday I visited the Colosseo, the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, all the amazing piazzos, including the Fontana Trevi and the Spanish Steps... this city has way too much to see...its a bit overwhelming..

Today, I visited il Basilica di San Pietro and the Vatican Museum and saw la Cappella Sistina, impossible to describe without seeing it... its breathtaking..

Anyway, one more day and its arrivederci for me..

il es una molti bella paese, italia

Ciao
Nancy

Off to Sardegna

Ciao..

The theme of the past few days has been "the Amazing Race", because we have been travelling a ton.. by land and sea.. we finally arrived in Sardegna at 2 a.m. Sat evening, after an 8 hour ferry crossing with our group that left from Rome... and have had a couple of free days, that everyone really needed, to just relax and enjoy the sun... it's fantastic here.. Sardegna is the vacation spot of Italy I guess and I see why.. we are staying at this fabulous hotel, just outside of Cagliari (the capital), called Nora - it's this tiny little place with one church and a few restaurants, but our hotel is right on the beach and we each have little bungalows that open up onto it.. it's wonderful! (no trace of the Sopranos) I have been appointed the evening entertainment, as all of our hotels have pianos, so with a little after dinner "grappa" I've been entertaining the troops most nights.. Volare is the most popular, althoguh on the ferry over, the waiter in the dining room made me play "I Did it My Way", while he sang in broken English...

We spent the day on Friday last week touring around another smaller island off the coast of Napoli, called Ischia... it was lovely and just enough for a day - we took the ferry over there as well and toured perimeter of the island for the morning and then had a free afternoon - we did a little limoncello tasting (as there are millions of lemon groves in this region) and I managed to find myself a gorgeous Italian leather purse (rosso!) I felt totally justified given my own having been stolen (at least that's what I'm telling myself)

Anyway, back to the food.. the food at our hotel is unbelievable.. all sorts of fresh seafood, plus one of the specialties of Sardegna is peccorino cheese (made from sheep's milk) and it is just about the best cheese i've ever tasted!

Today we spent the day exploring la costa del sud (the south coast) of Sardegna, which was very interesting - we went to some ancient ruin way up on the hillside, which had all kinds of stone tombs (Noracian) dating back 2500 BC. Then we went to this amazing grotto (massive cave) and spent the afternoon about 130 feet below the surface checking out all the caves and rock formations... I wasn't too keen on it at first, but it was amazing and well worth the trip.

The Italian is coming along well. I think I mentioned that my roommate (Marisa) and I have befriended our driver, Emilio, who speaks un piccolo anglese, but not much, so if we want to speak with him we pretty much have to do it in Italian. It's been great though, b/c we have spent a couple free days with him (he's our age) and the whole day is spent speaking Italian (I asked him whether he thought my accent was good or bad, and he said is was very entertaining.. gives you an idea of his sense of humour anyway!

Can't believe this is the last week, so I'm making the most of it.. we've got a couple more days of exploring, including a live mercato in Pula tomorrow and apparently we're having lunch with the shepards (like real sheep shepards) somewhere up in the hills on Wed - we have to take Land Rovers up there... and apparently they haven't seen women in about 10 years or something like that.. should be interesting.

I'm heading to Rome Thursday and have a packed agenda of things to see there and then home... and I'm just starting to get into vacation mode now.. this is not good.

So, if you don't hear from me again, don't be surprised - I might just decide to stay..

Ciao! a presto
Nancy